If suits are the eldest siblings in the garment family, attending to all of life’s serious matters, then men’s custom blazers and mtm sport coats (“made-to-measure”) are the younger children having all the fun.
The dictionary defines a blazer as “a lightweight jacket, typically solid-colored... not forming part of a suit but considered appropriate for formal or semiformal wear.” In other words, it can be comfortable or edgy while still passing off as clean and professional: the “work hard, play hard” motto in textile form.
The difference between suit jackets and men’s tailored blazers may be subtle (suit jackets have matching trousers, custom made blazers and sport coats do not), but the distinction opens up a world of possibilities.
It’s important to note here that while custom blazers have historically been seen exclusively as “menswear,” and the majority of those who wear sports jackets and blazers are male (and, yes, this article may explicitly address those folks at times), custom made blazers and sport coats are by no means limited to men’s wardrobes. Individuals of all genders can enjoy the benefits of wearing custom fitted sports coats and blazers.
Now, before we dive into any specific trends or styles or how TAILORS’ KEEP can help you find the right custom fit jacket for you, let’s examine the benefits of adding a custom design blazer or sport coat to your arsenal in three main points:
Versatility. As mentioned above, unlike suit jackets, blazers and sport coats do not have matching trousers, so they can be worn with formal slacks, chinos, corduroy, jeans, and even shorts(!), functioning well within a wide range of situations from formal to more casual fare.
Creativity. Their versatility opens sport jackets and blazers up to creative expression when it comes to color, pattern, fabric, and fit. A loose, checkered tweed sport jacket may give a laid back, natural look. A peak lapel and gold buttons on a custom blazer may offer a sense of weight and confidence to more casual attire.
Functionality. This may not be as sexy as the other two benefits, but men’s tailored sport jackets and blazers are also practical when it comes to keeping warm in the fall or winter months, or on spring and summer nights. In addition, if a jacket is custom-made, it will likely be more durable and last you for many years - even a lifetime.
While going with a classic look for both custom blazers and sport coats can never be harmful, it’s fun to take a look at some of the latest trends and styles to get a sense for what is possible. Some of the most prevalent trends include:
Fit: “Stretch” Blazers. This fitting trend adds a bit more wiggle room for comfort without sacrificing the more formal aspects of the custom blazer. Looser-fitting so-called “unstructured” jackets are also gaining popularity.
Fabric: Seersucker. It may sound like a type of fish, but the striped pattern and combination of puckered and flat sections make seersucker a bright, confident choice of fabric. However, twill textile weaves like serge and worsted wool are still the incumbents here.
Color: Red & Pink. While dark blues and grays remain the hallmark of custom blazer jackets, as wider palettes of color are becoming acceptable, warmer colors are starting to have their turn.
Pattern: Plaid. Again, solids continue to be the rule, but when it comes to what is currently on the magazine covers and men’s sport coat online shopping selections, the rugged-yet-playful nature of plaid is trending up.
If you want to get a visual tour of custom made sport coat and blazer trends, or better understand certain terminology, take a look at the lookbook and style guide on the TAILORS’ KEEP official website.
Lastly, if you’re the type of person who’s interested in how things work, you may be interested in how custom made jackets are put together; that’s where TAILORS’ KEEP comes in.
As it turns out, the process is very similar to that of a making a custom made suit in San Francisco: a tailor works with you to get fitted, select the fabric, style, color, etc., and then cut and sew the jacket together by hand. However, there are a couple key differences.
First, measurements for below the waist are not necessary, since trousers are not made to match custom blazers. Second, since custom sport coats and blazers offer a wider range of creativity, there are more style elements to take into consideration - including the other clothes you may wear with the jacket - that your friendly neighborhood tailor (us!) can help you navigate.
Whether you want to keep it classic for your first “foundation” men’s custom blazer or sport jacket, or you’re a custom jacket veteran who’s looking to spice things up with a new look, TAILORS’ KEEP has what you need to make it happen. Be it sharing information on styles and trends, getting measurements, pairing custom suits with luxury ties, or just talking shop. We’re happy to partner with you in your mission to look and feel your best.